We'll miss you, Love City
Sunday, June 10, 2007
May 28th & 29th
Monday
Our last full day on St. John. Are you as excited for the end as I am? Well, of course not the end of the vacation - but the end of this blog. It's taken longer to write about it than it took to live it. ;) I woke up Monday to storms. I had slept through all the evening showers each night and was shocked to see it was raining Monday morning. I think it's because I play nature cds at bedtime, often a thun
derstorm cd. Tammie & I checked the weather and were convinced it would pass so we packed up for the day. The plan was to hike the 1 mile from Salt Pond to Ram's Head. It's a hike meant for an overcast, cloudy day. There's no shade/cover and only the end is breezy. But I think the views are worth the trip (as long as its a cool day). I don't think I'd take on this hike on a sunny day. I was dripping with sweat and there was cloud cover, some drizzling rain, and cooler temperatures than usual. After that hike, Tammie planned a trip to Solomon Bay for the remainder of the day as a reward. We stopped at Maho first, briefly so I could get a couple of sarongs. Then back to Caneel - that's the only parking lot for Honeymoon & Solomon beaches. Solomon is a little more difficult to get to, and that afternoon it felt even farther. I was still dripping sweat (gross, I know; I remember) and at some point could tell I was getting overheated. But we made it to the beach, immediately located shade in which to stake our claim, and then headed for the water to cool off. Solomon is a small, quiet beach. There were about 8 people there other than us. We were also joined by a night heron. He was hunting and kept coming out from the forest towards shore looking for land crabs. He was a
very odd sight, but quite cute too. After Solomon we returned to the villa to rest and pack. The next morning would be our last. We needed to have the car returned and be to the ferry dock in time for the noon departure.*******************
Tuesday I set my alarm to go off and 6am on Tuesday - and it actually did this time. I got up and decided to start with breakfast. I was met in the hallway by a very sick Tammie. I was on my own for the morning, with a list of items to return with. Poor Tammie. I went straight to Trunk Bay and found quite a bit of shade to choose from. The sun was up, but not over the palms that lined the beach, so it was still a bit too cool for me to get into the water. I read my book and enjoyed the scenery. It only took about 20 minutes for the sun to get high enough. I headed out to the water for my last swim. I stayed there quite awhile - until a large boat moored off-shore and released what looked like a swarm of giant ants. All the snorkelers had black swim caps. First they snorkeled to Jumbie so I stayed put. Once I saw them making their way towards me, I decided to just go. My quiet beach was being ov
ertaken and that's not the way I wanted to remember her. After a quick stop at the Deli for lunch, and Gallows for the items on my list, I returned back to shower and finish my last minute packing. We were out of the villa a little later than I'd hoped but I figured we'd be fine. I dropped Tammie off at the ferry dock with our luggage, and drove the rental back to its owners. I walked back to the dock, and by then we didn't have to wait more than 20 minutes for the ferry to show up. We go to the airport in plenty of time - but not too early and before we knew it we were flying home. I was ready to go home. I missed D, and the kitties & doggies. I just wish home was someplace more scenic. :) Oh well. That is why I'll be returning to the islands. Tammie and I figured out we go roughly every 18 months. I can't wait!
posted by Shannon @ 10.6.07,
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almost forgot
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
I almost forgot (though it's just as well, that post was getting lengthy) . . . . .
Old Blue Chair
Artist(Band):Kenny Chesney
There's a blue rockin' chair,sittin' in the sand.
posted by Shannon @ 5.6.07,
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Short course; assisted; women; 35-49
May 27th, Sunday
You know that fear of sleeping through your alarm, or setting it wrong? Does that really even happen outside the movies? Isn’t it an illogical fear? No. No, it doesn’t just happen in the movies, and it’s not an illogical fear. I set two alarms so I would be up and prepped for the beach-to-beach swim. I either incorrectly set one (or both) or slept through them. I woke up 10 minutes before I needed to go and I was not showered, shaved or packed. Luckily it’s the beach so each of the three was done not quite up to par. I managed to get into the car only 8 minutes late, and by the end of the day all I noticed I’d missed in the frenzy was my rashguard.
We parked in a beach lot to wait for the shuttle, but opted to take a ride offered by some locals instead. I was dropped off at Cinnamon Beach, and Tammie continued to Maho where the race would start. I’d never been to Cinnamon before. It has a camp, cabins, archaeology dig, offices, snack bar, and restaurant hidden away. I only saw half of that stuff.
I made my way to the group of volunteers, mostly all locals. Sid runs Connections; Fraser is chairman of the board for Friends of the Virgin Islands National Park (the organization the ra
ce benefits); Jason runs his own computer business (mainly wireless stuff); Jason’s girlfriend, whose name starts with an “m” and is very similar to Miranda (but not Miranda) works for a Jeweler. There were also Jonas & Laura. They were two interns from the University of Copenhagen. There were also volunteers from Puerto Rico (they came with the sponsor, Hawaiian Tropic), and at least one other woman whose name I missed. We set up the finish line, relay area, water coolers, snacks, and medals. I was officially listed as the one who would hand out medals. Yeah! How awesome a job to have! I got to congratulate each and every person who crossed the short course finish-line. I had a blast. The other volunteers were awesome, and the race atmosphere was really cool.Tammie swam the short course, and crossed the finish line at Cinnamon. I thought she’d planned to snorkel and take her time so I barely got my camera out in time to snap her picture. I also got to medal the youngest finisher, a 7-year old boy. I don’t recall his name. Once all the short course finishers had crossed, we cleaned up and moved on to the long course finish at Hawksnest. By now it’s getting hot (~11am) so it was time for me to get in the water. I spent the rest of the race wading, and watching swimmers finish the 3.5 miles. Amazing. Sadly, the shuttles started taking people to the party before the last person finished. I felt bad, but not bad enough to stick around and have to walk to the party. I’ve done that walk before – not fun.
The afterparty was at the Oppenheimer Beach House (now a community center). It was a typical BBQ, and after everyone had time to eat, the awards were announced. Turns out Tammie won 1st place . . . . not first place overall. That went to a 16 year old girl; she won last year too. Tammie won first place for “Women’s Assisted Short Course.” She wore flippers and her snorkel – that’s what makes it assisted. She got a cool tote bag with goodies inside. Yeah!
We spent most the party with Laura (history intern from Copenhagen) and some of the archaeology people she worked for. The whole even was fun. It was really nice to meet so many locals, hear their stories, find out what they do on-island. It was great. Ken (archaeology), Laura, Tammie, and I walked back to the beach we all parked at. We gave Laura a lift back to Cinnamon and decided to stay there the rest of the afternoon. Tammie had a little sunshade, tent-like thing and it was perfect for Cinnamon. We hung out, chatted, and floated in the super soft sand. We also accomplished a goal; we ended an obsession. Though I was extremely nervous, we snorkeled first from Cinnamon to Little Cinnamon beach, then from Little Cinnamon to the ultra-private Peter Bay Beach. This beach has enormous beach-front mansions and is home to the rich and famous, including (until that week) Kenny Chesney. He sold his house, but still owns land in Peter Bay.
I don’t know what the big deal is. The beach was crap. It’s rocky and sm
all. I was not impressed. And the freakin’ blue chair was gone. GONE! I had Tammie take a picture of lame blue folding chair – just in case. No, that wasn’t THE blue chair. Not that I really care that much. It wasn’t until the party a few hours earlier that I even knew an old blue chair used to sit down by the beach, or that Kenny Chesney wrote a song about that chair. I don’t even listen to Kenny Chesney. We snorkeled back without stopping at Little Cinnamon (yeah for Shannon!). Then we hung out for another hour or so. I just didn’t want to leave the water. I could have floated there all evening.
I think this was the night we went out to dinner also. If you’re reading, Tammie maybe you can confirm that or correct me. But one night we did go out to the Beach Panini Trattoria. It was good. We both just got salad & appetizer. I was slightly annoyed because I asked for no onions but alas, onions abounded on my pesto pizza. At least they were easy to pick-off, unlike the gobs of diced garlic on Tammie’s pizza. And that was that – we may have gotten more Ting. We had to have a supply at all times. But for the most part, that was the end of day 4.
posted by Shannon @ 5.6.07,
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Melon? Lemon? What?
Monday, June 04, 2007
May 26th, Saturday
We started the day on Saturday by picking up our rental car. Again, the artistic renters made a last minute change and didn’t tell us. That rental agreement we signed was apparently an island agreement, like island time. So we got a behemoth vehicle, a Montero with third row seating – just what we needed. It drove fine, a little big for the island curves and hills, but I adapted. For instance, we learned to turn the AC off to help get up the hills, use 4WD, and accept the squealing tires (just on those nasty curves). Overall, Monty (I’ve just named her now) did us well, she was a nice, green, gal (do I need a comma there? I missed the start of comma rules week, and I still need to learn them – ugh).
After the car, we returned to the scene of the crime – the Caneel lunch buffet. We wanted it; we needed it. It was worth it. We got there early when everything was fresh. We were the first to hit the cheese, the first to the fruit soup – so yummy. I know I’ve left you all hanging – what was the snafu? I just can’t address it here, in the blog. Some of you have asked, and I’ve spilled, but public embarrassment? Yeah, I’ve had enough.
Next was Waterlemon – yes WaterLEMON; it’s the best snorkeling I’ve ever seen around St. John. Not to say there isn’t better out there, I just haven’t graduated to it yet. In fact, each time I’ve been to the cay, I consider it a success to get around it. There’s a strong current that runs between the cay and the main island, and that current continues around the island, though it lessens on the western side.
Last trip, we snorkeled off a dingy we moored near the cay. This time we snorkeled directly from Leinster Beach, which is significantly farther away. It was great. I didn’t see the carpet of s
eastars everyone saw in 2004, but I did see a handful of them. They’re enormous, I’m thinking at least 10” in diameter, possibly more. Maybe it’s just me, but I’ve always though seastars were more the size of your palm.
Last year we saw two spotted eagle rays here and two turtles. We got to follow the turtles for quite some time, even as they surfaced. This trip we saw more rays, but not eagle rays. We saw turtles again too. One was eating, I never knew they used their front appendages like hands to hold the food – make sense though.
There are substantially more fish around Waterlemon than any of the other places we snorkeled, combined. The coral is healthier also. This year in addition to the turtles, rays, and myriad of fish, we also saw live conch moving along the bottom, and a huge tarpon swam by us. It was well worth the longer swim from the beach.
After the majority of the day spent at Leinster and Waterlemon, we drove to Maho Bay Camps with 15 minutes to spare before the pre-race meeting. We quickly found a bathhouse, showered, changed and ran up to the meeting. Perfect timing. Tammie was signed up to do the Beach to Beach Power Swim the next day, and this meeting was to explain the course, rules, etc. We waited nearly an hour. The Deet was flowing, but the mosquitoes didn’t appear to notice. I had decided to volunteer. Since Tammie was swimming, I might as well make myself useful and get a t-shirt in the process.
We skipped dinner (mosquitoes) and headed back to the villa. End of day three.
posted by Shannon @ 4.6.07,
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Flashback - Jumbie, 2004
Saturday, June 02, 2007
an African word derived from djambe, referring to a ghost or malevolent spirit. (Definition courtesy of Wikipedia AND St. John Beach Guide by Gerald Singer)
I found myself in much too shallow water for my skill or comfort. I tried to escape, but it only got worse. I ended up standing on the coral, screaming for help – which I promptly got. I was led to safer, deeper water and I headed back to shore with D. But the anxiety wasn’t over apparently, and I started hyperventilating, sure I was going to drown.
Now I swim with that hot-pink inflatable vest, and sometimes Xanax. And I’m careful – I pay attention to my limitations and instincts. I’m a beginner and I need to keep that in-mind. I need to learn so I can see more each trip. This past trip was a snorkeling success, at Jumbie, and beyond! I learned techniques that were actually really helpful – thanks T!
Below is an excerpt from an essay I wrote on this subject. I sort of feel like "been there done that" with writing on this topic, and I don't want to write about it again.
[excerpt from essay, Wave of Panic. . . ]
Okay, I changed my mind. The essay was up here for a day, but I just thought it was too depressing to live amongst a happy vacation blog. Plus it was a bit long. So instead, I'm including a poem. I wrote this shortly after writing the essay. I'm not very schooled or skilled in poetry so humor me.
Twisting path to rocky shore, cement sand
Uneasy beyond buoys; Progress -
Past twinges; Dramatic trenches
Massive parrotfish
Tense
Enormous urchins, blood red black
Tiny angelfish hover; living coral
Blocked exit
Panic
Urchin spines nearer; Trapped; Stand -
Scream, guided out; Relax
Deep water – calm broken
Cry
Hyperventilate; he lags too far behind
A needlefish, my escort
Please keep up
Beg
Fish drift, glide, dart; Look for shore
One arm outstretched; Smush –
Fingers in sand; Sit; Sob
Wait
posted by Shannon @ 2.6.07,
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Surf's up naked dude!
Friday, June 01, 2007
Thursday, May 24th
Our first day was so mild mannered – only 1 beach. That’s ridiculous. Day two we hit three beaches to make up for it.
After our usual walk into town, we stopped at the Deli Grotto for lunch (to-go), and caught another taxi – this time for the Peace Hill trailhead. We were to look for a spur trail off to the right about 20 yards up. It would take us to Denis Beach. Denis is privately owned and can only be accessed by this little trail, unmaintained trail. In the US (including the VIs), you can own the land above high-tide, but not the beach itself. About 20 yards up the trail, indeed we passed something, but certainly not a trail. They did say it was ‘unmaintained’
but that crawlspace through a cactus couldn’t possibly be what they meant. Hmmm. We continued up the hill to Peace Hill ruins. There used to be a huge Christ statue but Hurricane Marilyn blew it over in 1995. I think we were walking on him. Anyway, the views were okay, but not great – there were lots of butterflies too.So down we went – to that “trailhead” we’d passed. Once we crawled through the cactus thing the trail wasn’t bad. Maybe they let it get overgrown at the top to discourage people. It was less than a ½ mile down to the beach. Denis Bay is pretty big. The left side that the trail opens out to is very rocky and overlooks Perkins Cay. As you walk to the right, over coral rubble and beachrock, you see the rest of the beach. A hurricane destroyed the dock also, though remnants remain. We passed a naked guy on our way to a shady corner. He seemed annoyed we were there, and covered himself a bit. Who wants to leave that out and possibly get it burned? Whatever.
Once settled in, we needed to cool off immediately and hiked halfway back across the beach. By now another person has entered the beach with their dog. I decided to swim while T snorkeled. The waves were really breaking quite a bit – especially over the reef. So I moseyed over to the dog and her owner, Gary. He has a boat, and he’s building a house on one of the southern bays. The pup was named Sweet Bean, “Bean” for short. She was 6 months old, and was willing to swim from boat to shore but wouldn’t get in from shore. I’m thinking she probably didn’t like swimming from the boat either and was “Get me to shore! Swim! Paddle; paddle; paddle! Swim!” She was super cute.
After our swim/snorkel we snacked on lunch. Deli Grotto has the best chocolate banana bread – yum. And Tammie likes the veggie burgers, though after trying them twice I can’t say I agree. Anyway, we snacked. I tried to open a coconut, but gave up. I briefly considered carrying it with me all day, and back to the villa. I took a photo instead and left it. I don’t think it was ripe enough yet. We hung out a little longer and then took off. Naked guy and Gary had both already left – separately, not together. I don’t want to start any rumors. We hiked back up the lovely, shady hill and then down the road to Jumbie Beach. Jumbie is an African word; it has to do with evil spirits. That’s an old story though; I wasn’t going to let evil spirits effect me on this trip to Jumbie. I was going to triumph.
Once we hit the shore, we saw a wedding going on in the far corner. So we got on our gear and snorkeled in the opposite direction (west towards Trunk Bay). The snorkeling wasn’t that great; it looked like a lunar landscape down there, all gray and dead. As we got farther out, the reef rose up from the sea a bit higher, and waves were breaking over it. I wasn’t into that. I turned back. Tammie joined me, and at least I hoped for better scenery on the eastern side. After a short rest, just long enough for that Xanax to kick-in, we headed out to snorkel the other side, headed towards Denis (I’m not sure what that point is called – Windswept Point maybe?). This was the site of one of my first snorkeling adventures years earlier. See my next blog entry for details. Otherwise, this one would become much too long.
The eastern side of Jumbie had quite a bit more life. The coral wasn’t in very good shape, but we saw Parrotfish, Tang, Angelfish, Squirrelfish, Sergeant Majors, Trunkfish, Trumpet fish, and more. Across the board, the Staghorn coral seemed to be the healthiest. It was a nice snorkel – I went just as far as the first time, but we stayed in deeper water. Upon our return, to shore the wedding party was gone, but their shade had been claimed. With all the searock and pebbles at the entry, and grass bits floating in the water (yeah, I’m sure there’s a better, more accurate name for the stuff) we decided to move along. We walked to Trunk Bay next.
It was late afternoon, and Trunk Bay was closed – which means free! We nearly had the beach all to ourselves. It’s so beautiful and the soft sand stretches out ridiculously far. We bobbed around and eventually Tammie started body surfing the little waves into shore – repeatedly. She was much like the kids at the other end of the beach, and seemed to be having at least as much fun. It was so relaxing and utterly gorgeous. We stayed until nearly sunset when the no-see-ums started to nibble. We caught a taxi back to our villa – end of day 2.
posted by Shannon @ 1.6.07,
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